Kitulgala to Kandy via N'Eliya
 

by Derrick Schokman

The picturesque hill country is rich in dramatic panoramas and cascading waterfalls, the sound of which Papal Legate Marignolli six centuries ago likened to the fountains of paradise.

The Adam's Peak sanctuary is yet able to hug the bosom of nature without being too far away from civilisation.

The Peak is surrounded by a carnival of waterfalls including Laxapana and Aberdeen, Devon and St. Clair, Elapata Puwakmal and Dotulu-ela, Baker's Falls, Galagama and Bambarakande, Bopath-Ella, Diyanella and Ura-ella.

It would be a wonderful experience if we could visit all these falls. But considering the remoteness of the sanctuary and the limited time factor of our envisaged tour, we settled for the beaten track from Kitulgala to Kandy via Hatton and N'Eliya, seeking to recapture some of the wild freshness of the mountains and the sound of tumbling water.

Idyllic

Kitulgala on the Kelani river has idyllic surroundings. Creeping urbanisation and the agricultural front has not yet diminished its charms.

Across the river is the Bambarakelle rainforest, rich in bird life, clear water streams, and caves that were inhabited by pre-historic Balangoda man.

There is, however, no bridge to get you across the river. The canoe is still the only means of transport used by local residents, especially parents (mostly mothers) escorting their children to and from school.

Film

There was a bridge way back in the 1950s, but it had a very short lifespan. The producers of the war film 'Bridge on the River Kwai' constructed it and had it blasted in accordance with the story. The train which suffered the same fate - purchased from the Ceylon Government Railway - was a relic of the defunct narrow gauge railway from Nanu-Oya to Ragala, locally referred to as the gini-petti-kochchi.

Some remains of the bridge may still be seen about one kilometre from the Kitulgala Rest House, which has an interesting display of scenes from the film.

Directed by David Lean, featuring Alec Guiness, William Holding and Jack Hawkins, this film won several Oscars.

White water

Today Kitulgala is becoming quite popular for white water rafting, a sport that attracts young men and women with a taste of adrenaline to challenge the chaos of rocks in the river.

The dominant scenery from Kitulgala includes vast vistas of verdurous tea, interspersed with eucalyptus plantations of the Forest Department, and rocky outcrops reminiscent of castellated scenes from Dore's pictures of Don Quixote.

Two major waterfalls complete the picture of wondrous nature linked with human ingenuity. The tumbling mass of Devon Falls is in striking contrast to the wider spread and stepped nature of St. Clair's, earmarked for the extensions of hydro-electric power.

St. Andrew's

In N'Eliya we stayed at the St. Andrew's Hotel - a building like so many others in the town that evoke a bygone era of British history.

The Hotel derives from a hundred-year-old colonial mansion, later converted into the St. Andrew's Scots Club, and finally with many extensions into the present hotel.

During the Second World War, the British Government used the hotel as a rest and recreation centre for servicemen.

The first arrivals were survivors from the aircraft carrier HMS Hermes, bombed by the Japanese off the coast of Batticaloa.

After Independence in 1948 when Tamil plantation workers recruited by the British were rendered stateless, St. Andrew's was called on again to do yeoman service as an additional kachcheri handling up-country estate families applying for citizenship.

The Hill Club is another reminder of the British presence. One wonders whether a more precisely English institution can be found anywhere in Sri Lanka.

Old hunting prints, woodcuts of fish, stuffed stag and leopard heads adorn the dim interiors gleaming with polished oak.

Annigoni's portrait of the Queen has its place of honour in the bar, along with Churchill who glowers down at you. Steeped in classic colonial style, the bar is still closed to women, and a strict dress code is followed for dinner. We by-passed the dress code by lunching instead of dining at the club.

Ramboda

We left N'Eliya for Kandy via the Ramboda Pass, looking forward to drifting down the endless curves instead of tediously climbing as we had done before.

Alas! we were denied that pleasure as the Road Development Authority was engaged in some urgent repair and road widening work.

We sought temporary refuge at Labookellie Estate, where we were treated to a free ten-minute tour of the factory followed by a refreshing cup of tea.

Labookellie was started in 1841 by a British Sea Captain William Mackwood, who gave his name to the firm that manages the estate.

It is one of the largest producers of single-estate high-grown tea. We made sure to leave with several packets.

Our next stop was at the Ramboda Hotel. It gave us the opportunity to whet our appetites with a little more than tea, and come face to face with the elusive Ramboda Falls.

Unlike the widely photographed and publicised Dunhinda and Diyaluma falls, the location of the Ramboda Falls has made it difficult to photograph.

Not any more. The Ramboda Hotel, which hugs the cliff opposite the falls in several descending tiers, makes it possible now to get very close views up to 50 feet or so.

We cashed in on this advantage and the fact that the falls were in spate to get some excellent photographs.

Watching that thunderous plunge of water acted as a catalyst to remind me of Oliver Hereford's poetic toast:

Here's to Adam's crystal ale

Clear, sparkling and divine,

Fair H2O (water) long may you flow,

We drink your health in wine.