What to do about those weeds?

Stopping weeds from coming up in the first place will save you a lot of work.

Paths and paving

If you don’t mind using weed killer, then path weed killer will prevent weeds coming up between the cracks and through gravel for several weeks at a time. Otherwise fill the cracks with cement, or hand weed using an old kitchen fork.

Mulching

Best carried out in spring on beds and borders, spread a 5cm to 10cm (2in to 4in) deep layer of garden compost or well-rotted cow dung over exposed soil. It also reduces water loss by evaporation and helps to improve the soil condition!

On a shrub border, a gravel or chipped bark mulch will last longer than compost or manure.

Weed-proof membranes

Lay below a mulch such as gravel or bark. The best type is woven polypropylene as this lets water through. To plant, just cut the fabric.

Root-proof barriers

A vertical barrier will stop rampant roots invading from next door. Dig a 30cm (1ft) deep trench and bury the barrier. The best material to use is damp-proof course (DPC), available from hardware shops.

Using weedkillers

To save time and hard work, weedkillers are the answer for anyone who doesn’t mind using chemicals.

* Read the manufacturer’s instructions to be sure you are using the right weedkiller for the job.

* Keep weedkiller off plants that you want to keep.

* Dissolve/dilute the weedkiller according to instructions on the packaging and apply weeds using a fine rose (sprinkler head) on a watering can which you only use for weedkiller.

* Don’t apply on a windy day because weedkillers can drift onto other plants.

* The most effective time to apply weedkillers is when weeds are leafy and growing actively.

* Keep weedkillers in a safe place, out of reach from children and pets. When empty, dispose of them carefully. Not all weeds will die so repeat applications may be needed.

Tackling an overgrown path

If you want to clear a neglected garden path overgrown with weeds, here’s how:

* Chop everything down to say 10cm (4in) above ground level, rake up the bits and dispose of them.

* Dig over the area and remove all the roots. Don’t hire a rotavator because this will chop up and spread perennial weed roots far and wide, making the weed problem much worse.

* If you don’t fancy digging, wait until new weed shoots appear and apply weedkiller containing glyphosate.

* Alternatively, cover the ground with sheets of black plastic or old carpet. Emerging weed shoots won’t get any light and will starve. This may take a couple of years to be 100 per cent effective.

Flower of the week: Dianthus, the divine flower

There are over 300 species of Dianthus, and hundreds more of hybrid varieties. The group includes annuals, biennials and perennials. Most Dianthus produces richly fragrant flowers in the spring or summer. Although Dianthus species vary from 2 inches to 3 feet tall in height, most garden varieties are 10 to 20 inches tall.

Dianthus should be planted where they will receive at least 4-5 hours of full sun each day. They thrive in fertile, fast draining, and slightly alkaline (pH 6.75) soil. Avoid over-watering because it may tend to turn the foliage yellow.

Usually a weekly watering of established plants will suffice unless the weather is extremely dry. Dianthus will often reseed themselves, so don’t be too hasty in removing spent plants from the ground.

Plant Dianthus species 12 to 18 inches apart and at the same depth at which they were previously growing. The crown, or top of the root structure, must be level with the surface of the soil (never bury any part of the stems.) Unlike most other plants, Dianthus plants should not be mulched.

They require good air circulation around the stems at all times and must be kept as free from foliage moisture as possible. For continued blooming feed lightly every 6 to 8 weeks with an all-purpose (10-10-10) liquid fertilizer.