Globally, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar heralds the period of religious fasting. It is a time of deep spiritual reflection, renunciation and devotion. The word Ramadan is derived from the Arabic word ramadi – meaning dryness. Thousands of adults and youth faithfully adhere to the sacred fast whilst working or attending university. Fasting is observed from sunrise to sunset. The observance is one of the five pillars of Islam. Iftar is the symbolic meal that breaks the day’s fast. In order to appreciate the cultural and culinary heritage of Iftar we must understand the cultural background from where the religion of Islam was propagated. In keeping with the teachings of the Prophet Mohammed, the fast is broken by eating three dates. This is followed by drinking a rice-based porridge or faluda (chilled milk infused with rose essence).
Arabian food can be traced back centuries and is embellished with exotic ingredients. Its menus are strongly influenced by the Persian and Turkish civilizations which were prosperous. With the region positioned on the crossroads of the once commercially dominant spice route, Arabian dishes display refined taste and skillful preparation. Ancient adherents of Islam based their food on pine nuts, dates, eggplant, cinnamon, rice, sugar, sesame, and saffron. In terms of meat, there was an abundance of beef, mutton and poultry. It is interesting to note that the ancient Arabs also used a mortar and pestle to crush their garlic and spices like we still do today, in many regions of Asia.
Other traditional cuisine includes amar al-deen, fresh apricot cut and soaked in water for several hours. The solution is then mixed with enough water to make it smooth. Erk soos is another beverage where extracts of the liquorice plant are mixed with water to make this drink that is served in Egypt, Jordan, Lebanon, Palestine and Syria. Tamar Hindi is a sour chilled drink usually sold throughout the year in several Arab countries. Another cool beverage is jellab, a syrup made of grape and molasses mixed with rose water and sugar, then poured over ice and decorated with pine nuts. Some of these drinks are not popular in Sri Lanka, but we are all familiar with creative variants of the faluda.
The main course dishes of Ramadan (and throughout the Muslim culinary calendar) are rice-based dishes such as biriyani, mansaf and kabsas. As we all know, biriyani is popular in Sri Lanka and is served at weddings and family gatherings by even non-Muslim communities. It has come to be a dish associated with celebration. This is how food can beautifully connect ethnic groups together, bringing us under one Sri Lankan flag. In the past few years, pot biriyanihas become a firm favourite among discerning gourmets in Colombo.
Another segment of Ramadan cuisine consists of stuffed vegetables where large peppers, eggplant, tomato, and zucchini are stuffed with flavored rice to make what is commonly known in the Arab world as mahshi. It is mainly served in Egypt. Among the lesser-known dishes in Sri Lanka is couscous. Originally a North African dish of granulated semolina, it is served with meat, chicken, fish or vegetables. When living overseas I was privileged to eat masgouf, a traditional Iraqi dish of baked fish. Harees is another popular dish in the Gulf consisting of coarsely ground wheat buried underground with chicken or meat. Another delightful Islamic food is kunafa, a sweet made from spun shredded wheat. It can be filled with cream, cheese, or nuts and raisins, depending on which Arab region it comes from. Atayef is an Arabic pancake usually filled with cheese or nuts, and served with a sugary syrup or honey. It goes down well with black coffee.
I presume it is from this that we find our coconut filled pancakes. When we explore the traditional cuisine associated with Ramadan, soups are essential components of family meals. Chicken, lentil, vegetable and tomato soups are commonly served. I have had the famous chicken broth and beef soup of Slave Island in Colombo, which is a Malay delicacy. Pittu and babath (tripe) is another fast moving dish. Beef rolls are another delight of Ramadan in this area.
During this month if you walk along some of the predominantly Muslim areas in Colombo like Maradana and Slave Island you can witness food carts selling deep fried samosa and rolls filled with beef and goat meat (not mutton as many Sri Lankans mistakenly say). I used to cherish eating all of these with my classmates Shahabdeen and Shafraz Zubair. Another area that showcases Muslim cuisine is the road near the esteemed courts of Aluthkade. Here a few shops really manifest the taste and tradition of Muslim food. One such exponent of taste was the late Naleer, a rotund soul full of life and a passion to cook. He passed away this year but his family continues their business. The ‘dolphin kottu’ served here is a stunning dish that has been featured on foreign cable TV. Another hit is the adduku rotti, layers of rotti filled with spicy minced beef. I need not elaborate on the bliss invoked by eating wattalappam, the hallmark dessert of Muslim cuisine.
Whilst fasting can induce self-discipline I assume it can also direct our minds to understand the elements of hunger and poverty which are global issues recognized even by the United Nations. Again, Ramadan whilst being exclusive to the Muslim people in the dimension of religion, can teach all Sri Lankans the fundamentals of sharing and caring. The areas of the Red Mosque and Colombo Grand Mosque will be busy with prayers.
Ramadan is observed out of sincere faith. It teaches us self-discipline. It is a holy month that brings Muslim together. A sacred month to revive their faith and reach greater spiritual levels. Ramadan must unite all Sri Lankans in the true essence of brotherhood, which we have cherished for decades.
