The Sithulpawwa Vihara, located in the Yala National Wildlife Zone, can be reached from Tissamaharama via Yodhakandiya and along the Kataragama to Katagamuwa Road. Both these routes pass through the Yala National Wildlife Park. With the discovery of ancient tank ruins in the valley areas within the wildlife park, it is evident that the area was once colonized. It likely served as pasture lands for the Bikkhus who lived in the Sithulpawwa temple.
As you approach the temple, you will notice the stupa glowing white on the rock surface. The prevailing opinion is that this temple was founded during the time of King Devanampiyatissa’s brother, Prince Mahasiva. However, according to C. W. Nicholas, the history of this temple dates back to the time of the ten kings of Kataragama. The names Chithala Pavata, Chithala Pavama in Sinhala, and Chithala Pabbatha, Chitala Koota in Pali are used to identify this place. It is even possible to speculate that the name ‘Chithala Pavatha’ means ‘the captivating rock’.
According to the Sinhalese Bodhiwansa, King Devanampiyatissa planted a sapling of the Bodhi tree from the Sri Maha Bodhi on the day Sithulpawwa became a sacred place. Since Bodhi saplings were planted in prominent places at that time, it is possible to think that Chithala Pawatha was well-known. As noted in the Mahavamsa, twelve thousand arahanths who lived in the Sithulpawwa Vihara participated in the merit ceremony for the ‘Mahanuggala’ Stupa built by King Kavanathtissa.
Stone inscriptions mention Devanapiya King Abaya (Dutugemunu), Mitha (Nandi Mithra Commander), Pusadeva (Pussadeva Commander), Velusa (Velusumana Commander), and Aymara (Gota Imbara Commander), indicating that this temple received royal patronage during the time of King Dutugemunu. It is mentioned in the Vibhanga Atuwawa that twelve thousand monks lived here during the time of King Walagamba. King Vasabha built ten rock stupas here, with the ruins of three of them found so far. The number of stupas and caves in this monastery complex exceeds those in Chethiyagiri or Mihintale.
The Nikaya Sangraha shows that when King Mahasen attempted to destroy the Maha Vihara and move away from its great boundary, he was prevented by an apprentice monk with higher knowledge who lived in Sithulpawwa. Buddhaghosa Thera mentions in the Vishuddhi Path that many people came to see the arahants living here around the 5th century AD.
A rock inscription, believed to be from King Ilanaga, is located near the steps at the foot of the main rock. It mentions the lands offered to the Sithulpawwa temple but is somewhat damaged. This inscription provides information about the old numbering system.
On the right side of the road leading to the main rock from the south, there is a large lake about five meters deep, which has been recently renovated and is in use today. The main stupa was renovated about 70 years ago, changing its ancient shape to the present chaitya style. Fragments of the old stupa are scattered around the area.
Within the main cave found in this temple, there are ancient paintings from the 5th and 6th centuries. As most of these have been destroyed, it is difficult to discern the content of the paintings. However, one notable painting of a row of Sri Lankan Jungle Fowl (walikukula) is unique and has not been found elsewhere in Sri Lanka. The presence of reclining statues and Kavandha stone Buddha statues confirms that this cave was an ancient pilima geya. The standing Buddha statue leaning against the wall is sculpted in the Amaravati style of art, characterized by three points of stance. Unfortunately, the head, arms, and lower parts of the statue have been destroyed.
Two statues of Bosath found in Sithulpawwa are placed in a special chamber at the entrance of the main cave. These statues indicate the influence of Mahayana Buddhism in the distant areas of Ruhuna. One of the statues is confirmed to be of Avalokiteshvara Bodhisattva by the carving of a Buddha statue on its head covering. The identity of the other statue is uncertain, but archaeologist Paranavithana suggests it might be another style of Avalokiteshvara Bosath.
To the right of the stairs leading down behind this chamber are the ruins of an ancient shrine room, which archaeologists believe could be the main pilima geya. It was built in the Gandhakuti style. There may have been a standing Buddha statue on the Padam Peetha here. According to ancient architecture, the Yantra Stone with Atamagala under the feet of the statue is placed in front of the main cave. Two Vajrasanas, which were used as Buddha symbols before the creation of Buddha statues, are found in the ancient bodhigaraya to the southeast of the shrine room.
The lake to the left of Bodhigara is identified as Dakkhina Tissa Lake. According to a stone inscription of King Kanitta Tissa, he spent 830 gold pieces (kahavanu) to restore this lake and offered it to Sithulpawwa Temple. Since this restoration took place in the 2nd century AD, it confirms that the lake existed even before that time.
A remarkable ancient object found in the Sithulpawwa sanctuary is the 300-foot-long Diggal Lake, located on the eastern side of the Athagala rock. Naturally formed in the rock itself, this type of reservoir is called a ‘chem.’ Excavations on the western slope of the main rock revealed a stone ‘chemiya’ or pond, methodically built in ancient times. This pond, quite large, contained brick pottery and iron nails used for decoration. The most important artifact is a group of jungle fowl figures made of burnt clay, very similar to the jungle fowl images painted in the main cave. These may have been related to some construction work above the pond and later fallen into it.
The present generation is fortunate enough to see this ancient sacred place thanks to the dedication and hard work of Kavikula Thilaka Kalahe Gunarathana, who served as the Chief Incumbent of the Yatagala Rajamaha Vihara in Galle. This place, covered by the Yala forest, was cleared by him in 1918, reviving and restoring the site. Due to his efforts between 1918 and 1936, Buddhists today have the privilege of worshipping at this temple.
After him, Ilukupitiye Jinarathana Thera, appointed as the trustee, built the Kataragama-Sithulpawwa road and the Tissamaharama-Sithulpawwa road. With permission from the Department of Archaeology, he restored the main stupa, repaired the cave temple, restored the recumbent statue there, and built a resting hall for the convenience of pilgrims.
In 1965, Wattehene Piyarathana Thera, who became the trustee of this temple, contributed to its development by improving the access roads, restoring parts of the Maha Vihara, building steps, and commencing the annual Poson Festival, among other activities.
In 1976, Wattehene Rathanasara Thera, who became the trustee, built the present Sangha Abode. Dakkhina Tissa (Dakini Thisa) renovated the lake, with the support of the temple Chief Incumbent, Unawatune Rathanajothi Thera. He was also instrumental in preparing the revenue streams for the temple and repaired the small Sithulpawwa Stupa, constructing the access road for it.
Subsequently, Metaramba Hemarathana Nayake Thera, who became the Chief Incumbent of the temple, transformed this site into an attractive sacred ground with state patronage.
This year, the temple Dayaka Sabha has arranged to conduct the Poson Festival over three days: June 20, 21, and 22. The Aloka Pooja is conducted under the guidance of Dhammika Attygale of Upali Group. Necessary facilities are provided for pilgrims. Additionally, facilities required for devotees observing sil, dhamma sermons, Buddha Pooja, and meditation will be held throughout the day on Poson Poya day. The Aloka Pooja will be inaugurated at 5:00 pm.
Venerable Lelwala Samitha Thera Historic Sithulpawwa Rajamaha Vihara, Southern Province Chief Incumbent of Sithulpawwa Rajamaha Vihara
